I Belize It!

My long-time bestie couldn't help herself. "Last night I dreamt of San Pedro..." was stuck in her head and on her lips as we perused the options listed under Southwest Vacations. Summer is the busy season for her husband so her dream of visiting Belize would have to be a girls' trip to become reality.
    Belize? Just moms and daughters? I'm in!


X'tan Ha

    Southwest Vacations' site offered us plenty of resorts to choose from, ranging from 2 to 5 stars. Most of the 5-star resorts looked pretty much like any other place you'd find along a beach and were priced like a night at Disney World. We dropped that fifth star from our search and this cute little place 2 miles north of San Pedro on Ambergris Caye popped up. X'tan Ha. ("igckshtan - HA". Yeah, good luck with pronouncing that!)
     Booking was tough. Although most of the rooms feature a queen and a double-futon, Southwest Vacations would only let us book 2 per room. (You can call the resort directly and book up to 4.) The price was amazing, though. $750/per person with airfare on SWA for 5 days. With that kind of price, we took the chance on this not-so-well-known resort and jumped in with both feet.    We couldn't quite decide whether to take the water ferry, Tropic Air or Maya Island Air from Belize International to San Pedro. We called Sandy Point Resorts and a sweet lady named Priscilla happily took care of our transportation from airport to X'tan Ha and back, all for the same prices Southwest Vacations had offered. Our reservations included Tropic Air and Sandy Point's water taxi. Note to self: Hair should be secured firmly to head when traveling to/from resorts on Ambergris Caye. I recommend corn rows or a solid French braid if you've got long, wild, curly hair like me and my child. However, the loose hair made for some great photos. I digress.
     Getting there was an adventure. My friend and I are both big planners, so we read everything we could prior to our departure date. We prepped our passports and packed lots of 110 spf sunscreen and bug spray. We read all the travel rules and made sure we had everything in order. Naturally, Southwest Vacations failed to connect the passport numbers we entered to our flight information so our early bird boarding option was a waste of money. (You can't obtain the boarding position on an international flight until that passport number is logged.) No worries. I know which rows to sit in on SWA's Boeing 737's to ensure early drink service during my flight. We got to the airport almost 3 hours early, as recommended by TSA for international travel, checked our big bags (no more than 30" x 15" by 17" and under 50lbs per the hopper flight rules), and grabbed a leisurely lunch. We were just about to sit down for a quick beverage 30 minutes before our boarding time when the Southwest gate agent called our names.
     Turns out SWA REQUIRES a notarized letter from the other parent when one parent travels internationally with a child to Belize. Yeah, all the websites said it was "recommended," but not required. So of course the gate agent rudely chastised us for not looking in the right website (their pro-only accessible site) and promised we would not board without the letters. Emergency phone calls and dad runs to local banks for a notary ensued. A really awesome Houston Hobby employee printed the photos of the notarized letters and with 5 minutes to spare we were approved to board our flights. Whew! Disaster averted.
    An easy 2 hours and a Bacardi & Coke later we were in Belize and standing in line to show our docs to immigration. (Use the bathroom here - those guys are SLOW.) Guess what? No one asked for the notarized letters we'd so painfully obtained minutes before our flight. Shocking!
    We headed to baggage claim (only 2 carousels in Belize), and waited. And waited. And waited. Nothing. All four of our bags never arrived. We rushed to the Southwest baggage counter and each filed an incident, which they naturally filed under my 12-year-old daughter's name rather than mine. This process easily took 30-40 minutes. When we were done, SW shut down their baggage counter and the place emptied. There's only one flight per day and we were between the counter reps and their next jobs apparently. 

The Tropic Air Cessna

    We missed our booked Tropic Air flight. No biggie. Apparently booking times are more of a guideline than a solid reservation in Belize. Tropic Air quickly moved our flight time when we finally made it through the customs line to their "gate." Although the tiny airline caused us some baggage pain later, my daughter was ecstatic to be randomly selected to fly "co-pilot" on our way back to the mainland at the end of our trip. The planes are modern and well maintained and both our pilots were highly skilled - a rare thing with many small private airlines like this one.
    Snafu #3. My ears were still clogged from the flight so I used my credit union Visa card to buy some Vick's Vapo Rub (options are severely limited), snacks and sodas as we waited for our hopper flight. B-U-T T-Mobile hadn't quite figured out I was out of country yet, so when that fraud check call came in, I didn't get it. Oops. Good thing I brought cash because my bank locked the one piece of plastic I'd brought with me. Regardless, the Tropic Air flight to San Pedro was quick - just a few minutes - but not exactly commercial air. You have to hold your carry-on and at 5'3" and 130lbs, I barely fit in the seat with my backpack. Granted, I'd stuffed my photography equipment bag into my computer backpack, so that wasn't a great idea. You can use your electronics on the hopper flight and it's a great time to take pics of the coastline, so plan ahead.
    When you arrive at San Pedro, it's about 2 blocks to the Sandy Point pier where you can catch their complimentary water taxi. Take the mini-van. The walk may be short, but traffic is insane (literally) and the streets aren't exactly US quality. There are few sidewalks. The mini-van (taxi) will get you there in under 5 minutes. At the dock, we shared our lost luggage story with the Sandy Point transportation manager and he kindly walked us through San Pedro to a nearby grocery store where we bought basic toiletries for about $25 USD. Options are limited. It's an island. Remember that when you pack.
    The water taxi is fun, but fast, hot and wet. Do not wear your best clothes and bring a good attitude. You can frown your way through the lack of American comforts or do like we did and enjoy the adventure of it all.  There is a "cabin" on the boat, but you're not likely to enjoy it's protection since passengers packed in the nose makes the ride rough. Not to mention if you do end up inside the cabin, the odor of gasoline may turn your stomach a bit until the boat reaches full speed.
    We finally arrived at X'tan Ha around 6:30 PM. They met us with some fresh fruit punch (spiked if you like) and amazingly friendly staff. Radiance, the best hotel concierge/hostess EVER, gave us a quick rundown of what happens next and got us checked in. We ditched our carry-ons in our AWESOME villas, freshened up and walked the whole 15 or 20 steps to the Temple Run Tavern for some much-needed dinner around 7:30 PM.

    This is where the wow factor really kicked in. Jeffrey, the trainee who comes across like a manager, gave us the 5-star VIP treatment despite our ragged appearance. (Yeah, our hair brushes were in those lost bags.) He kept my water glass full, which was a feat in itself, and tag-teamed well with our wonderful waiter, Eddie. While the rest of the staff at Temple Run Tavern were outstanding, Eddie made our trip truly special. Nothing on the menu was set in stone according to Eddie and I've yet to meet a friendlier, more helpful restaurant employee anywhere else in the world. The ambiance was far better than the resort's web site implies, with the free-roaming flies and mosquitos the only drawback. (Yes, our Cutter was in the lost luggage, too.) While the insects were a mild distraction, the amazing food and superior service was more than enough to make us forget about them.
    After dinner, we settled into our villas for a quick card game and a taste of the incredible Belizean coffee we found in our well-appointed kitchens. (Tip: bring your own creamer and sugar - they're hard to come by in Belize.) The kitchen featured bottled water and modern, American-made appliances including a coffee maker, toaster, microwave, glass-top stove, dishes and pans. While staring longingly at the beautiful beach just yards away, we hatched a plan to head into San Pedro the next morning for swimsuits, a change of clothes and some groceries.
    The queen bed in my room was firm but comfortable. The pillows were on the thin side, but there were plenty to stack up if you're a side sleeper. The room cooled off quickly once the sun went down and we were happy to find the bathroom stocked with eco-friendly shampoo and soaps that sufficed for the evening.

Inside our X'tan Ha villa. Each room is a little different.

 

   The best way to get to San Pedro from X'tan Ha is by golf cart. Radiance hooked us up with a gas-powered 4-seater, briefed us on safety and local laws, then provided us with a simple map highlighting the places we needed to go to get what we needed. I grabbed my camera and the little bottle of 30-proof sunscreen we'd purchased at the airport, loaded up the girls and headed into town. Take your time driving the backroads to San Pedro. The roads are riddled with potholes and interesting sights. The girls were delighted to find an old abandoned resort populated with banded iguanas. There were tons of local hole-in-the-wall restaurants and hand-painted signs offering everything from tours to spa services. The locals were generally friendly, though not the most patient/courteous drivers in the world. Pull over and let 'em pass if you're lolly-gaggers like us. Don't forget to pay the $2.50 (no quarters accepted) one-way toll once you cross the bridge into San Pedro. (You can't miss it, though the tourist information center is easily over-looked.)


The Famous Bamboo House Mile to Anywhere Sign

    Unfortunately, we arrived in San Pedro just two days after the devastating fire that left 88 homeless. There are three main roads through San Pedro and the center street was completely closed, diverting traffic onto the two remaining major streets. Keep in mind, a "major" street in San Pedro is roughly the old world equivalent of a neighborhood road in a typical US town. The roads teemed with golf carts - the primary mode of transportation on Ambergris Caye - and pedestrians. Occasionally we dodged speeding lightweight trucks and minivan taxis, though those were few and far between. Driving in San Pedro is not for the feint of heart. If you're not into being tailgated by impatient tourists and caution-free locals, it's best to park that golf cart early and walk it. You can pretty much walk across all of San Pedro in 15 minutes.
    Per Radiance's recommendations, we found "I Love Belize" not far from the Sandy Point Resorts dock and got to shopping. Pretty much all of the clothing had been imported from L.A. and was made out of light cotton or rayon. Even plain cotton tank tops ran about $9 USD and the simple cover-ups that would have gone for $15 in Houston ran $30-50 USD. I found a pair of shorts and tank top but still spent a non-refundable $53 on that basic casual outfit. (Tip: If buying clothes, try them on first. The sizes aren't consistent and businesses in San Pedro aren't into refunds and exchanges.) 2 outfits, 2 swimsuits, a pack of hair ties and a hand-made bracelet cost me just over $130 USD. We also found a small pharmacy (about the size of a walk-in closet) near the dock and managed to stock up on contact solution and our missing OTC's for almost nothing. Well, most of them. We were able to buy Omeprazole by the pill but my Allegra was nowhere to be found. The pharmacist, a native of Belize City who'd relocated to San Pedro and worked with her tiny daughter coloring in the corner of the shop, was kind enough to give us a lesson on understanding Belizean currency before we left. (It's similar to USD except that the color of the ink helps distinguish denominations and anything under $2 BZD is in coin form.)

   Finally, we set out to find some groceries. We got microwave popcorn, Coffee Mate and gave up on our search for sugar. The meats and veggies were - well, they'd never make the cut in the USA. There was a wide variety of unrecognizable spices and odd-looking grains, but very little we knew how to prepare given our limited Texas heritages. We never managed to find so much as a bobby pin or sunscreen over 30 spf, though we did find an $8 USD can of Cutter (family version). Be prepared to pay $7 for deodorant (full sized) and $4 for a small tube of Colgate (the only brand of toothpaste on the shelves).
    We opted to eat out and headed over to El Fogon, which Radiance had recommended. After a quick lunch that consisted of an order of beef "stew" and a plate of four lobster tostadas (enough for my friend, her daughter and I to split), frozen key lime pie and coconut cheesecake and bottled water, my daughter declared she would never eat beef stew back home again. Yeah, the food in the tiny restaurant that featured a view of a half-built building wall, was that outstanding. (On a side note, Elvie's and Ashley's Kitchen also came highly recommended by other locals and tourists alike.)
    We spent a little time walking around but felt we were taking our lives in our hands given the heavy golf cart traffic and unconcerned drivers. The police weren't super patient with clueless tourists and neither were the local drivers. Soooo...we spent our remaining "city" time walking the beach until we ran out of real estate. Keep an eye out for local artisans who create gorgeous jewelry out of found stones and conch shells. While most prices are negotiable with street vendors, I happily paid $15 USD for one such hand-made necklace.
    Now that we were fully stocked with swimwear and a change of clothes, we felt we could get started with our Belizean vacation. We spent the remainder of the evening enjoying another world-class dinner and relaxing in the pool outside our villa. A couple of our suitcases arrived, but sadly SWA had only managed to send over half of what was missing despite confirming all four bags had arrived in San Pedro that afternoon.
    The next day, we took advantage of the resort's paddleboards, life jackets and kayaks in the morning. Travis had taken over for Radiance and took good care of us, helping us get booked for our fishing tour and loaning us a volleyball for a quick game in the water. (We were pathetic.) Still without our industrial-strength sunscreen, we embarked on our reef fishing tour a little after 1:30 PM. Our guide, AC Jr, was friendly, helpful and knew the reef like the back of his hand. Unfortunately, his gear wasn't up to the task of landing the barracuda that insisted upon grabbing our hooks regardless of the locations he chose and the canopy on his boat snapped under the pressure of the choppy waters and high winds that afternoon. Our pasty-skinned blonde daughters didn't hold up well in the afternoon sun so we had to cut our fishing trip short before we landed anything for dinner. The couple we'd designated "California" who came in before us managed to go outside the reef and landed several large fish, including a beautiful snapper that the chef at Temple Run Tavern prepared for them that evening. The fishing tour runs $281 for four hours and includes beverages, bait and gear for up to four. The girls got a kick out of the fact that the water came in little plastic bags they had to bite into instead of traditional bottles and did manage to land a few small, exotic-looking fish even if we didn't catch anything worth keeping.
    By the time we got back, word came that our last two suitcases never arrived despite having been promised on the evening water taxi. Radiance was back and went to work tracking down our luggage, which turned out to be sitting in Tropic Air's offices. No one could explain why our blatantly recognizable bags were never handed off to Sandy Point's employees for delivery. Radiance had her taxi team make another run just for our bags. They showed up after dinner...with ONE bag. Yep - Tropic Air failed to hand over the second one. Hey, at least my daughter and I finally had a change of clothes, three days into our five-day trip! X'tan Ha's outstanding staff weren't taking "IDK" for an answer and kept on it as we again moseyed off for yet another amazing dinner. Who knew the next morning, our last day, our last piece of luggage would finally arrive? Kudos to the X'tan Ha team for their persistence in tracking down each piece and making a few special runs to deliver each bag outside their normal water taxi hours.
    Saturday we saved for snorkeling. We booked the 1:30 Hol Chan ("little channel") and Shark Ray Reef tour via Tuff E Nuff. Ernie (I hope I have that right), who worked out of the X'tan Ha office, was kind enough to loan us our snorkeling gear that morning so we could take the girls on a few refresher practice runs given it'd been awhile since they'd been snorkeling. It also gave me a chance to test run my underwater camera and get everything ready for our tour that afternoon. (The bright sun and clear water mean you have to have that LCD set at it's brightest even underwater.) For our snorkeling tour, a pair named Booda and Francois picked us up on the "school bus" - a hard-topped speed boat also stocked with plenty of Fanta and packaged water. (No beer for snorkeling trips.) The two men knew the reef better than I know my own back yard. (Okay, couch.) Not only did they expertly guide our little 5-person group (we picked up a Seattle native before heading out), but added a "secret" stop over the "conch graveyard" they shared only with experienced snorkelers. While I loved that extra stop and it's plethora of exotic fish varieties and beautiful coral, I have to admit the Shark Ray Reef experience that put us in the water with a school of yellow jacks, stingrays and several 5' to 7' nurse sharks was my favorite. Booda fed the sharks and rays from the boat while Francois kept an eye on us. For you non-experts - nurse sharks don't generally bite humans, but you do have to be careful of getting slapped by their powerful tails and shouldn't provoke them by poking or grabbing. However, even if you do manage to tick off one of these gentle creatures, they aren't going to do much damage with their small mouths and tiny teeth. Booda drove us back to our resort and even kindly offered to BBQ for us next time we visit Belize should we decide to snorkel with his team again. I can't wait!
    One of our favorite parts of visiting X'tan Ha was the little tiki-hut bar at the end of the dock. Armando treated us well and whipped up some wonderful papaya margaritas and virgin pina coladas for the girls. Like the rest of the staff at X'tan Ha, he and his team were friendly, extremely professional and took great pride in making our visit pleasant and memorable. It was par for the course - our last day there Eddie (the waiter) made dinner special for us and even went over the top with our final desserts in Belize. (See picture.)


Eddie's special rum cake presentation

    All in all, we didn't want to leave X'tan Ha. Ever. This tiny resort has the feel of a family-run B&B with the ambiance of true island life. There are surprising, fun touches everywhere you turn. Everyone we met there was friendly and we were able to enjoy social time with the other visitors thanks to the intimate layout of the resort and lack of consistent wi-fi to distract us from human interaction. It may not boast all the comforts of a big commercial resort, but what more do you need than a beautiful view, a comfortable bed, excellent food & coffee, and the friendliest, most professional staff you'll encounter outside a $1000 a night NYC hotel? The accommodations may only rate four stars, but the people at X'tan Ha earn it a 10 out of 5 from me!

1. 24 hours before your international flight - call and verify your passport number has been attached to your travel info.
2. When traveling internationally with just one parent, be sure to have a notarized letter from the other parent acknowledging and approving the trip. (Sole custodians excepted, but bring your custody docs in that case.)
3. Bring cash and more than one credit card. Most places in Belize take USD and the exchange rate is 2 BZD to 1 USD. (Easy math.)
4. Bring plenty of small change for tips. You'll tip lots of drivers, resort staff, tour guides and the like. Tipping well has a material impact on the service you receive, and you're likely to encounter the same faces again and again. They WILL remember you.
5. Let your credit card issuer (i.e. bank) know you're traveling out of country so they don't set a fraud alert on your card at an inconvenient moment.
6. Pack light. Big luggage may not find it's way to the island. Pack essentials (toiletries, bug repellent, sunscreen, swimsuit, PJs and a change of clothes) in a VERY small, light carry-on. Leave the fancy clothes and high heels at home. Light cotton, linen and rayon are your friends.
7. Bring your own sugar and dry creamer if you're a coffee drinker.
8. Leave the babies at home. Belize isn't Disney World and your kids need to be civilized and reasonably mature (i.e. pre-teen) to avoid annoying the other guests and truly appreciate what Ambergris Caye has to offer.
9. Be patient. Things move slow on the island, and so should you when you visit. Take time to enjoy the view.